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Services
When performing a standard inspection, our inspectors will start on the outside of the home.
They will take a close look at the following systems:
The drainage and grade of the yard, electrical service, exterior walls, trim, windows, doors,
porches and decks, crawl spaces, foundation, garage, garage doors, and openers. The
inspector will also go on the roof (when safe) and check the chimney, vents, flashing,
skylights, gutter and downspout systems, as well as the condition of the roof itself. We will
We then go inside of the home and check:
All ceilings, floors, and walls, the electrical system, service panel breakers and fuses, light
switches, plugs, and fixtures, water heater, heating systems and air conditioning. The
ventilation and insulation. The inspector will inspect the basement, foundation, plumbing
lines, waste drain pipes, water pressure and pressure tank assembly when applicable. In
total, there are more than 300 different systems that are checked on an inspection. An
inspection normally takes anywhere from 2 to 3 hours and sometimes longer to complete
depending on the size and age of the house, and whether or not there is a septic and well to
be inspected. We encourage our clients to attend the inspection and to actually follow the
inspector while it is going on.
Home sellers are more frequently having a home inspection before they place it on the
market. A Pre-Listing Inspection allows the seller to have an opportunity to repair any items
of concern that were uncovered during the inspection. The seller could also highlight the
positive aspects of the home inspection. Knowing the exact condition of a home before it is
listed can reduce the anxiety and stress of the sale.
A Pre-Purchase inspection is performed before the purchase of a property. It is usually
completed after a formal offer has been made. Make sure that a Pre-Purchase contingency
is in the contract.
A pre-purchase inspection will reduce the risk of costly surprises to one of the largest
investments most people will make. It will also help in budgeting future costs associated with
maintaining a home. The ultimate benefit of a pre-purchase inspection is that you will have a
sound basis to make an informed, educated, and confident decision regarding the
investment in a home.
A septic system disposes of wastewater underground, and has two basic parts- a septic tank
and an underground drain field. The septic tank removes most solid wastes from the water.
The heavier solids settle to the bottom of the tank where bacteria breaks it down into sludge.
Lighter wastes form a scum layer on top of the water. Cleaner water between the two layers
flows into the drain field. The drain field filters and treats the wastewater by distributing it over
a large underground area of coarse soil.
When doing a septic inspection, our inspector will locate and open the lid of the septic tank.
He will then check the liquid level in the tank, the inlet and outlet baffles, as well as the size
and condition of the tank. He will then test the working condition of the drain field, and if
necessary the condition of the wash-stones. The inspection and testing of the septic system
does not include the pumping of the tank. If the tank is evaluated as being in need of
pumping the client will be informed as to when the tank should be pumped.
Individual on-site wells serve as the potable water supply for residences located on
properties not served by public water supplies. Most well constructions today are drilled for
submersible pumps. This is done by drilling a 10” bore hole 100 feet or more below land
surface until a sufficient quantity of water is found. The hole is then cased with plastic or
metal pipe (casing) which must be seated at least 2 feet into bedrock and extend a minimum
of 8 inches above finished grade. Although jet pumps are still in operation today, submersible
pumps are more efficient and have a greater water flow.
A Well Inspection will cover the type of water system and the basic working condition of the
well and pump. Our inspector will locate and inspect the well head, main water supply line
entrance into building, and determine proper distance from the septic system. The most
important part of the well inspection is the flow rate or gallons per minute. Most submersible
pumps have a flow rate of over 10 gallons per minute. Jet pumps or pumps above ground
have a much lower flow rater. The minimum flow rate for a jet pump is 3+ gallons per minute,
a flow rate below 3 gallons per minute is unsatisfactory for most homes. Our inspector will
then inspect the working condition of pressure tank, pressure switch, pressure gauge and
test pump pressure range under a 30 minute plus test of continuous running water.
Every year hundreds of homes in Michigan are attacked by termites or other wood boring
insects. Home purchasers need to know if these pests are present before investing their
money. Therefore, it is wise to have the property inspected by a person who can detect the
presence of wood destroying pests and provide a report on his findings. Our inspector will
perform the inspection on all visible areas of the structure which is readily accessible. The
inspector cannot see behind walls, paneling, into the voids of cinder block walls, areas of
attics which are inaccessible or under carpeting. Infestation here may remain undetected.
The findings of the Wood Destroying Insect Inspection are documented on a Wood
Destroying Insect Inspection Report.
Water samples are taken and analyzed by an independent laboratory. Big Moose Home
Inspections offers a combination of water tests.
Coliform Bacteria: Total Coilform, Fecal Coliform – (E. Coli); A group of bacteria that, if
present in water, show that other pathogens may exist. Coliform bacteria are indicator
organisms and are not harmful themselves.
Nitrates: Nitrates are the final product of the oxidation of ammonia. Sources include septic
systems, fertilizer, manure, etc. Nitrates can cause methemoglobinemia or "blue babies" by
not allowing hemoglobin (the blood pigment) to transport oxygen. Nitrate levels in drinking
water should not exceed 10 mg/l (ppm). Nitrates & Nitrites consist of one water test.
Nitrites: Nitrites are the first product of the oxidation of ammonia.
Lead: Lead may be found in drinking water and in the plumbing. - After several hours, tap
water standing in pipes may dissolve unhealthy amounts of lead from pipe solder. In areas
with soft, non mineralized water, run taps for 30 seconds or until cold before using water to
drink or cook. Request lead-free solder when plumbing is installed or repaired, and don't
drink water from the hot water tap, as it has higher levels of dissolved metals. Excessive
lead levels in potable water may be determined by a water analysis test. Lead piping and
solder joints in older homes can also be tested using a lead test kit for “on the spot”
results.
Radon comes from the natural breakdown (radioactive decay) of uranium. Radon can be
found in high concentrations in soils and rocks containing uranium, granite, shale,
phosphate, and pitchblende. Radon may also be found in soils contaminated with certain
types of industrial wastes, such as the byproducts from uranium or phosphate mining.
In outdoor air, radon is diluted to such low concentrations that it is usually nothing to worry
about. However, once inside an enclosed space (such as a home) radon can accumulate.
Indoor levels depend both on a building's construction and the concentration of radon in the
underlying soil.
Radon enters a home through dirt floors, cracks in concrete floors and walls, floor drains,
sump pumps, joints, and tiny cracks or pores in hollow-block walls. Since you cannot see or
smell radon, special equipment is needed to detect it.
A representative from Big Moose Home Inspections will place the radon kit in the proper
location within the home, and then return to the home 2 days later to retrieve it. The test kit
should be left in the home for at least 48 hours and should be placed in the lowest livable
level in the home, at least 20 inches from the ground. Big Moose will retrieve the test kit and
mail it in to the laboratory. The laboratory will perform the analysis of the testing device and
return the results to Big Moose. Big Moose will forward a copy of the results to our clients.
Although lead-based paint (LBP) was banned in 1978, some 57-million private homes and
one million housing units still expose occupants to the hazards of lead dust from flaking paint.
Lead is a highly toxic substance and exposure to it is known to cause a variety of health
problems in children. The National Safety Council estimates that there are more than
400,000 children under the age of six who have elevated levels of lead in their blood.
Children can be exposed to lead in several ways. The most common way, however, is for
children to come in contact with lead-based paint in their own homes. Through chewing on
woodwork or just common hand to mouth contact, children can unintentionally ingest lead
particles. Any house built prior to 1978 could have lead based paint and should be tested.
You deserve to be well informed and aware of the dangers of lead so that you can protect
the people dearest to you. Our inspector can test for lead-based paint on the spot and/or
take paint samples from various spots around the home to be analyzed by an independent
laboratory.
Big Moose Home Inspections will perform a limited weekly onsite interior and exterior cottage
security check for the purpose of informing the customer of any unusual circumstances that
have or may compromise the security of the said residence. Exterior cottage security checks
only are also available. Big Moose Home Inspections will also identify and report any
structural or mechanical damage either by natural or other causes to customer in a timely
fashion depending on urgency of the matter.
Big Moose Home Inspections will perform a daily heat monitoring service of the temperature
in your home or cottage while you’re away in the winter months which will protect your home
or cottage from any unnecessary damage due to mechanical failures to the heating system
or power failures due to severe weather conditions. A telephone line temperature monitor will
be installed at your residence. If the temperature drops below 42 degrees Big Moose Home
Inspections will be alerted and will then make a service call to determine the reason for the
drop in temperature. Based upon findings it may be necessary to call in a service technician
and/or winterize the residence until repairs are made. We’ll make every attempt to contact
you before services are rendered.
Winterization is the careful preparation of a vacant property to minimize the amount of
damage to the plumbing and related fixtures if the property is subject to freezing
temperatures. Most properties suffer a great deal of cosmetic damage if left “cold and
vacant” in the winter months. The properties show very poorly to prospective buyers if on
the market for sale. Therefore, it is important to leave the automatic heating system
operating at a minimum setting (about 55 degrees), even after the winterization procedure
has been performed. The procedure results in the water supply to the property being shut
off to the plumbing fixtures and the water drained from all pressure lines, as possible. Our
Winterization service includes an inspection of the plumbing related items and a written
report describing the inspection Winterization results.
Why should a property be “Winterized”? The “Winterization” of vacant properties is a very
important part of prudent property management. The cost of performing the Winterization
Service is less than a single service call to repair plumbing that is damaged from freezing.
With freeze damage usually comes the problems of wet floor coverings, and damaged
ceilings. In short, the Winterization Service makes good sense!
What happens in a Winterization Service? The whole procedure takes about one hour in an
average property of about 1,500 sq. ft. The procedure begins with turning off the water to
the home. With the water off, the plumbing is methodically drained with air pressure to get as
much water out of the lines as possible. The hot water tank(s) are drained at the customers
discretion, and properly marked. The crawl space vents, fireplace damper, and clothes dryer
vent, are closed, (if applicable). The furnace is cycled and checked for operation, and the
cooling system(s) are adjusted to prevent them from being turned “on” resulting in potential
damage. An anti-freeze solution is added to the waste temperatures. In short, “the stage is
set” by an experienced service inspector to minimize the opportunity for damage to the
plumbing and related fixtures from freezing temperatures. This Winterization Service does
not make repairs of any kind.
The De-Winterization inspection and related service essentially reveres the procedure
performed in the original Winterization. We offer this inspection and service to our
customers. When we “Winterize” a property we do not leave and of the faucets of piper
open. Therefore, anyone that turns on the water will a minimum amount of damage. This
policy and unique procedure also allows the new property owner to “De-Winterize” the
property with a minimum amount of risk to the property and in most cases without further
expense. Our De-Winterization service includes an inspection and written report.
The former owner of your new home may have had extra keys over the years that were given
to neighbors, friends, ext. Depending upon the condition of your current locksets, you may
want to consider re-keying, replacing or upgrading them to a level appropriate to your
security needs. You may also want to have all your locks working with the same key, making
entry and exit from your home more convenient. Door viewers, which allow you to see your
visitors before letting them in , add an additional measure of security. Our professional
locksmith service will be able to assist you in making these decisions as well as providing
installation. The level of security a lockset offers depends on its construction. Locksets are
generally categorized as low, medium, or high security. A lock with only a key in the knob or
handle is considered marginally secure: a burglar can easily foil it. For increased security, a
deadbolt lockset should be installed on each entry door.
When performing a standard inspection, our inspectors will start on the outside of the home.
They will take a close look at the following systems:
The drainage and grade of the yard, electrical service, exterior walls, trim, windows, doors,
porches and decks, crawl spaces, foundation, garage, garage doors, and openers. The
inspector will also go on the roof (when safe) and check the chimney, vents, flashing,
skylights, gutter and downspout systems, as well as the condition of the roof itself. We will
We then go inside of the home and check:
All ceilings, floors, and walls, the electrical system, service panel breakers and fuses, light
switches, plugs, and fixtures, water heater, heating systems and air conditioning. The
ventilation and insulation. The inspector will inspect the basement, foundation, plumbing
lines, waste drain pipes, water pressure and pressure tank assembly when applicable. In
total, there are more than 300 different systems that are checked on an inspection. An
inspection normally takes anywhere from 2 to 3 hours and sometimes longer to complete
depending on the size and age of the house, and whether or not there is a septic and well to
be inspected. We encourage our clients to attend the inspection and to actually follow the
inspector while it is going on.
Home sellers are more frequently having a home inspection before they place it on the
market. A Pre-Listing Inspection allows the seller to have an opportunity to repair any items
of concern that were uncovered during the inspection. The seller could also highlight the
positive aspects of the home inspection. Knowing the exact condition of a home before it is
listed can reduce the anxiety and stress of the sale.
A Pre-Purchase inspection is performed before the purchase of a property. It is usually
completed after a formal offer has been made. Make sure that a Pre-Purchase contingency
is in the contract.
A pre-purchase inspection will reduce the risk of costly surprises to one of the largest
investments most people will make. It will also help in budgeting future costs associated with
maintaining a home. The ultimate benefit of a pre-purchase inspection is that you will have a
sound basis to make an informed, educated, and confident decision regarding the
investment in a home.
A septic system disposes of wastewater underground, and has two basic parts- a septic tank
and an underground drain field. The septic tank removes most solid wastes from the water.
The heavier solids settle to the bottom of the tank where bacteria breaks it down into sludge.
Lighter wastes form a scum layer on top of the water. Cleaner water between the two layers
flows into the drain field. The drain field filters and treats the wastewater by distributing it over
a large underground area of coarse soil.
When doing a septic inspection, our inspector will locate and open the lid of the septic tank.
He will then check the liquid level in the tank, the inlet and outlet baffles, as well as the size
and condition of the tank. He will then test the working condition of the drain field, and if
necessary the condition of the wash-stones. The inspection and testing of the septic system
does not include the pumping of the tank. If the tank is evaluated as being in need of
pumping the client will be informed as to when the tank should be pumped.
Individual on-site wells serve as the potable water supply for residences located on
properties not served by public water supplies. Most well constructions today are drilled for
submersible pumps. This is done by drilling a 10” bore hole 100 feet or more below land
surface until a sufficient quantity of water is found. The hole is then cased with plastic or
metal pipe (casing) which must be seated at least 2 feet into bedrock and extend a minimum
of 8 inches above finished grade. Although jet pumps are still in operation today, submersible
pumps are more efficient and have a greater water flow.
A Well Inspection will cover the type of water system and the basic working condition of the
well and pump. Our inspector will locate and inspect the well head, main water supply line
entrance into building, and determine proper distance from the septic system. The most
important part of the well inspection is the flow rate or gallons per minute. Most submersible
pumps have a flow rate of over 10 gallons per minute. Jet pumps or pumps above ground
have a much lower flow rater. The minimum flow rate for a jet pump is 3+ gallons per minute,
a flow rate below 3 gallons per minute is unsatisfactory for most homes. Our inspector will
then inspect the working condition of pressure tank, pressure switch, pressure gauge and
test pump pressure range under a 30 minute plus test of continuous running water.
Every year hundreds of homes in Michigan are attacked by termites or other wood boring
insects. Home purchasers need to know if these pests are present before investing their
money. Therefore, it is wise to have the property inspected by a person who can detect the
presence of wood destroying pests and provide a report on his findings. Our inspector will
perform the inspection on all visible areas of the structure which is readily accessible. The
inspector cannot see behind walls, paneling, into the voids of cinder block walls, areas of
attics which are inaccessible or under carpeting. Infestation here may remain undetected.
The findings of the Wood Destroying Insect Inspection are documented on a Wood
Destroying Insect Inspection Report.
Water samples are taken and analyzed by an independent laboratory. Big Moose Home
Inspections offers a combination of water tests.
Coliform Bacteria: Total Coilform, Fecal Coliform – (E. Coli); A group of bacteria that, if
present in water, show that other pathogens may exist. Coliform bacteria are indicator
organisms and are not harmful themselves.
Nitrates: Nitrates are the final product of the oxidation of ammonia. Sources include septic
systems, fertilizer, manure, etc. Nitrates can cause methemoglobinemia or "blue babies" by
not allowing hemoglobin (the blood pigment) to transport oxygen. Nitrate levels in drinking
water should not exceed 10 mg/l (ppm). Nitrates & Nitrites consist of one water test.
Nitrites: Nitrites are the first product of the oxidation of ammonia.
Lead: Lead may be found in drinking water and in the plumbing. - After several hours, tap
water standing in pipes may dissolve unhealthy amounts of lead from pipe solder. In areas
with soft, non mineralized water, run taps for 30 seconds or until cold before using water to
drink or cook. Request lead-free solder when plumbing is installed or repaired, and don't
drink water from the hot water tap, as it has higher levels of dissolved metals. Excessive
lead levels in potable water may be determined by a water analysis test. Lead piping and
solder joints in older homes can also be tested using a lead test kit for “on the spot”
results.
Radon comes from the natural breakdown (radioactive decay) of uranium. Radon can be
found in high concentrations in soils and rocks containing uranium, granite, shale,
phosphate, and pitchblende. Radon may also be found in soils contaminated with certain
types of industrial wastes, such as the byproducts from uranium or phosphate mining.
In outdoor air, radon is diluted to such low concentrations that it is usually nothing to worry
about. However, once inside an enclosed space (such as a home) radon can accumulate.
Indoor levels depend both on a building's construction and the concentration of radon in the
underlying soil.
Radon enters a home through dirt floors, cracks in concrete floors and walls, floor drains,
sump pumps, joints, and tiny cracks or pores in hollow-block walls. Since you cannot see or
smell radon, special equipment is needed to detect it.
A representative from Big Moose Home Inspections will place the radon kit in the proper
location within the home, and then return to the home 2 days later to retrieve it. The test kit
should be left in the home for at least 48 hours and should be placed in the lowest livable
level in the home, at least 20 inches from the ground. Big Moose will retrieve the test kit and
mail it in to the laboratory. The laboratory will perform the analysis of the testing device and
return the results to Big Moose. Big Moose will forward a copy of the results to our clients.
Although lead-based paint (LBP) was banned in 1978, some 57-million private homes and
one million housing units still expose occupants to the hazards of lead dust from flaking paint.
Lead is a highly toxic substance and exposure to it is known to cause a variety of health
problems in children. The National Safety Council estimates that there are more than
400,000 children under the age of six who have elevated levels of lead in their blood.
Children can be exposed to lead in several ways. The most common way, however, is for
children to come in contact with lead-based paint in their own homes. Through chewing on
woodwork or just common hand to mouth contact, children can unintentionally ingest lead
particles. Any house built prior to 1978 could have lead based paint and should be tested.
You deserve to be well informed and aware of the dangers of lead so that you can protect
the people dearest to you. Our inspector can test for lead-based paint on the spot and/or
take paint samples from various spots around the home to be analyzed by an independent
laboratory.
Big Moose Home Inspections will perform a limited weekly onsite interior and exterior cottage
security check for the purpose of informing the customer of any unusual circumstances that
have or may compromise the security of the said residence. Exterior cottage security checks
only are also available. Big Moose Home Inspections will also identify and report any
structural or mechanical damage either by natural or other causes to customer in a timely
fashion depending on urgency of the matter.
Big Moose Home Inspections will perform a daily heat monitoring service of the temperature
in your home or cottage while you’re away in the winter months which will protect your home
or cottage from any unnecessary damage due to mechanical failures to the heating system
or power failures due to severe weather conditions. A telephone line temperature monitor will
be installed at your residence. If the temperature drops below 42 degrees Big Moose Home
Inspections will be alerted and will then make a service call to determine the reason for the
drop in temperature. Based upon findings it may be necessary to call in a service technician
and/or winterize the residence until repairs are made. We’ll make every attempt to contact
you before services are rendered.
Winterization is the careful preparation of a vacant property to minimize the amount of
damage to the plumbing and related fixtures if the property is subject to freezing
temperatures. Most properties suffer a great deal of cosmetic damage if left “cold and
vacant” in the winter months. The properties show very poorly to prospective buyers if on
the market for sale. Therefore, it is important to leave the automatic heating system
operating at a minimum setting (about 55 degrees), even after the winterization procedure
has been performed. The procedure results in the water supply to the property being shut
off to the plumbing fixtures and the water drained from all pressure lines, as possible. Our
Winterization service includes an inspection of the plumbing related items and a written
report describing the inspection Winterization results.
Why should a property be “Winterized”? The “Winterization” of vacant properties is a very
important part of prudent property management. The cost of performing the Winterization
Service is less than a single service call to repair plumbing that is damaged from freezing.
With freeze damage usually comes the problems of wet floor coverings, and damaged
ceilings. In short, the Winterization Service makes good sense!
What happens in a Winterization Service? The whole procedure takes about one hour in an
average property of about 1,500 sq. ft. The procedure begins with turning off the water to
the home. With the water off, the plumbing is methodically drained with air pressure to get as
much water out of the lines as possible. The hot water tank(s) are drained at the customers
discretion, and properly marked. The crawl space vents, fireplace damper, and clothes dryer
vent, are closed, (if applicable). The furnace is cycled and checked for operation, and the
cooling system(s) are adjusted to prevent them from being turned “on” resulting in potential
damage. An anti-freeze solution is added to the waste temperatures. In short, “the stage is
set” by an experienced service inspector to minimize the opportunity for damage to the
plumbing and related fixtures from freezing temperatures. This Winterization Service does
not make repairs of any kind.
The De-Winterization inspection and related service essentially reveres the procedure
performed in the original Winterization. We offer this inspection and service to our
customers. When we “Winterize” a property we do not leave and of the faucets of piper
open. Therefore, anyone that turns on the water will a minimum amount of damage. This
policy and unique procedure also allows the new property owner to “De-Winterize” the
property with a minimum amount of risk to the property and in most cases without further
expense. Our De-Winterization service includes an inspection and written report.
The former owner of your new home may have had extra keys over the years that were given
to neighbors, friends, ext. Depending upon the condition of your current locksets, you may
want to consider re-keying, replacing or upgrading them to a level appropriate to your
security needs. You may also want to have all your locks working with the same key, making
entry and exit from your home more convenient. Door viewers, which allow you to see your
visitors before letting them in , add an additional measure of security. Our professional
locksmith service will be able to assist you in making these decisions as well as providing
installation. The level of security a lockset offers depends on its construction. Locksets are
generally categorized as low, medium, or high security. A lock with only a key in the knob or
handle is considered marginally secure: a burglar can easily foil it. For increased security, a
deadbolt lockset should be installed on each entry door.
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| Our Goal... is to become Your Personal Building Consultant For Life! |
| Northeast Michigan's Number One Home Inspection Company |
Give us 5% of your confidence, and we'll earn the other 95%